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The Ultimate Guide to Adhesives

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The Ultimate Guide to Adhesives

Stick with It: The Ultimate Guide to Adhesives for Artists & Crafters

by Elizabeth Ragona. © 2025 Alabama Art Supply.

Whether you're mounting a masterpiece, layering a collage, or assembling a handmade book, your adhesive matters more than you might think.

The wrong glue can warp your paper. The wrong tape can yellow with age. And what works perfectly in a scrapbook might fail under a varnish or inside a frame.

In this guide, we'll explore the many types of adhesives used in art — from classic glues and spray adhesives to acrylic gel mediums and archival tapes — and help you choose the right tool for the job. Along the way, we’ll break down industry terms like acid-free and pH-neutral, demystify Mod Podge, and offer real-world tips to help your art last as long as your ideas do.

Pablo Picasso, 1913–14, Head (Tête), cut and pasted colored paper, gouache and charcoal on paperboard, Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, Edinburgh

Here's a quick reference chart of glues and adhesives:

Note: UHU glue sticks are labeled acid-free but may not meet full archival standards. Use with care for long-term work.

Video courtesy of Willa Wanders

Acid-Free vs. pH-Neutral: What's the Difference?

Both "acid-free" and "pH-neutral" refer to values on the pH scale, a scientific scale from 0 to 14 used to measure how acidic or alkaline a substance is. Materials with a pH below 7 are acidic, while those above 7 are considered alkaline (or basic). A pH of 7 is neutral — balanced and chemically stable.

  • Acid-free means the material has a pH of 7 or slightly above at the time of manufacture. It contains no active acid that could immediately damage artwork.
  • pH-neutral means the pH is exactly 7, which is ideal for long-term stability and preservation.

So what's the catch?
Even if a material is pH-neutral today, it may not stay that way over time.

For example, cotton is naturally acid-free, but wood pulp (used in many papers and tapes) is naturally acidic. Manufacturers often add buffering agents to raise the pH and make these materials temporarily pH-neutral. However, if residual acids remain — or new acids form as the material ages — they can eventually exceed the buffering capacity, leading to yellowing, brittleness, and breakdown. (Think: an old newspaper turning brown in the sun.)

👉 Bottom line:

  • Acid-free means fewer harmful ingredients from the start.
  • pH-neutral means balanced — but not always permanently safe.
    For archival artwork, look for adhesives and papers labeled as both acid-free and pH-neutral, or those designated archival or conservation-grade.

Acid-Free

A material is labeled acid-free if it does not contain acids that will break down over time. This is especially important when working with paper or adhesives, since acid can cause artwork to yellow, crack, or become brittle as it ages.

In adhesives, "acid-free" means that at the time of manufacture, the formula is free of acid. However, that doesn’t always mean it will remain stable long-term.

pH-Neutral

pH-neutral means the product has a pH of 7 — exactly in the middle between acidic and alkaline. This is ideal for archival preservation because it means the adhesive won’t chemically react with paper, pigments, or supports over time.

Archival vs. Non-Archival

Some glues are labeled “archival” or “conservation grade,” which typically means they are both acid-free and pH-neutral and have been tested for long-term stability.

For best results: Look for adhesives that are acid-free and pH-neutral, especially when working with fine art, framing, or anything you want to preserve.

Glue Types – From Crafting to Conservation

When most people think of adhesives, they think of glue — and with good reason. It's one of the most versatile and widely used tools in any artist’s supply kit. But not all glues are created equal. Some are perfect for classroom crafts, while others are formulated for conservation work or long-term display.

In this section, we’ll walk through the most common glue types you’ll encounter and help you understand when to use each — whether you’re binding a handmade book, mounting a collage, or gluing fabric to wood.

Glue Sticks

Great for: quick paper projects, schoolwork, and lightweight collage.

Glue sticks are convenient, mess-free, and easy to use — perfect for young artists and lightweight work. However, they’re not archival, and their bond weakens over time. Use them when permanence isn’t a concern.

✏️ UHU Glue Stick

This classic yellow glue stick is known for its smooth application, strong initial tack, and low odor. It’s acid-free and great for collage, sketchbooks, journals, and classroom use.

  • Archival? Some versions of UHU glue sticks are labeled as acid-free, but not all are fully archival or pH-neutral. Check the packaging.
    • UHU Stic (original) is often labeled as acid-free, which is safe for short- to mid-term paper projects (like scrapbooking or journaling).
    • However, it's not always archival quality in the same way that Lineco PVA or gel mediums are — it may still yellow or become brittle over time in certain conditions.
    • Use with care or for temporary/low-risk archival projects only.
  • Pros: Clean, portable, dries clear, ideal for light papers
  • Best for: Paper-to-paper adhesion, card making, zine work

White Glue (e.g., Elmer’s)

Great for: general crafting and porous materials like paper or wood.

White glue is inexpensive and widely available, but it can warp or wrinkle paper, especially if over-applied or thinned with water. It dries clear and flexible but is usually not archival unless specified.

Elmer’s Washable School Glue (White, 4 oz)

This classic white glue is a classroom and craft room staple, known for its easy cleanup, safe formula, and budget-friendly price. It goes on smooth and dries clear, making it ideal for school projects, collages, and lightweight paper crafts.

  • Pros: Washable, non-toxic, kid-safe, easy to apply
  • Best for: Paper, cardboard, light wood, craft foam
  • Archival? ❌ No – not recommended for fine art or permanent display
  • Tip: Use sparingly on thin paper to avoid warping

Tacky Glue

Great for: felt, foam, fabric, and textured craft materials.

Tacky glue is a thicker version of white glue that grabs quickly and holds well on uneven or absorbent surfaces. It’s ideal for three-dimensional or decorative craft projects, but like white glue, it’s not intended for archival work.

🌼 Aleene’s Tacky Glue

A long-time favorite in the crafting world, Aleene’s Original Tacky Glue is a thick, white PVA glue that grips quickly and dries strong. Its thickness makes it great for foam, felt, embellishments, lightweight wood, and fabric.

  • Pros: Fast grab, versatile, inexpensive
  • Best for: Craft foam, mixed media, classroom projects, DIY
  • Archival? No — but very popular for temporary and decorative work
  • Variations: Aleene’s also offers Turbo Tacky Glue, Clear Gel, and Fabric Fusion

PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate) Glue

Great for: bookbinding, collage, paper mounting, and fine art use.

PVA glue is the gold standard for professional paper bonding. It dries clear and flexible, doesn’t warp most surfaces, and — when labeled acid-free and pH-neutral — is considered archival. It’s widely used in book arts, framing, and conservation.

Tip: PVA is also available in reversible forms for restoration or in neutral pH bookbinding glues designed for long-term use.

Fabric Glues

Great for: textiles, embellishments, and mixed-media fiber art.

Fabric glues are designed to remain flexible and washable once dry. Some require heat-setting with an iron, while others bond on their own. These adhesives are perfect for use on canvas, wearable art, or combining cloth with paper.

Wrapping It Up: Know Before You Glue

Choosing the right glue isn’t just about sticking things together — it’s about supporting your materials, protecting your work, and preserving your vision.

Ask yourself:

  • Will this piece be displayed long-term?
  • Will it be handled, folded, or washed?
  • Does the adhesive need to be invisible, flexible, or removable?

When in doubt, test the glue on a scrap of your material first, and always store adhesives with their caps tightly closed in a cool, dry place.

Spray Adhesives – Broad Coverage, Clean Finish

When you need an even bond across a large surface — without brush strokes or puddles — spray adhesives are the go-to solution. They’re especially useful for mounting paper to board, assembling presentation pieces, or preparing backgrounds for collage.

But like any tool, spray adhesives have their own quirks. With the right prep and precautions, they can deliver smooth, wrinkle-free results that liquid glue just can’t match.

Types of Spray Adhesives:

🔁 Repositionable Sprays

Great for: layouts, mockups, scrapbooking, and stenciling

Repositionable sprays offer a light tack that allows you to lift and reposition materials before committing. They’re great for temporary layouts, masking, or aligning photos and paper.

  • Dries tacky, not hard
  • Can sometimes be reactivated by pressing or heating
  • Not intended for permanent fine art or archival use

✅ Permanent Spray Adhesives

Great for: mounting paper, fabric, lightweight wood, or photographs

Permanent sprays create a firm, lasting bond when used properly. They’re ideal for mounting watercolor paper to board, creating portfolios, or adhering decorative paper to a rigid surface.

  • Strong, even coverage
  • May cause bleed-through on thin paper if over-applied
  • Some brands offer archival or acid-free formulas (check the label)

⚠️ Best Practices for Artists:

  • Spray in a well-ventilated area. Outdoors or in a spray booth is best — fumes can be strong and unhealthy in enclosed spaces.
  • Use a drop cloth or spray box to avoid overspray on your worktable or floor.
  • Apply in light, even coats — it’s easier to build up adhesive than to fix a soggy, warped surface.
  • Check for archival labeling if the piece will be framed or stored long-term.

💡 Tip: If you’re working on a very delicate paper (like mulberry or tissue), test first — some spray adhesives may cause slight spotting or warping.

Spray adhesives can be a lifesaver when speed, surface area, and appearance matter. From quick collage backgrounds to professional portfolio mounts, they offer a level of ease and coverage that liquid adhesives can't match — just be sure to follow the safety precautions and label instructions carefully.

Gel Mediums – The Artist’s Adhesive

If you’re looking for an adhesive that doesn’t just hold — but also enhances your artwork — gel mediums are the secret weapon of painters, collage artists, and mixed media creators.

Originally developed as a way to alter the texture and finish of acrylic paint, gel mediums also work beautifully as archival adhesives, texture builders, and sealers. They dry clear, are flexible when dry, and are available in a wide range of consistencies and finishes.

Types of Gel Mediums:

Gloss vs. Matte Finish

  • Gloss gel dries shiny and tends to intensify color.
  • Matte gel dries with a soft, non-reflective surface and appears slightly cloudy when wet but dries clear.

Both are available in soft, regular, heavy, and extra-heavy body consistencies.

Soft Gel Mediums

Great for: light collage work, layering thin papers, image transfers

Soft gels spread easily, similar to lotion or yogurt. Use them when you want transparent adhesion without added texture. They're perfect for decoupage-style layering, light fabric, or delicate tissue and rice papers.

Heavy & Extra-Heavy Gel Mediums

Great for: building texture, securing heavier objects, creating relief surfaces

Thicker gels are great for attaching items like wood, fabric, cardboard, or even sand and grit in sculptural mixed media work. These gels can also be shaped or stenciled to build dimension before painting.

Pro tip: Apply with a palette knife for bold texture or brush on for a strong adhesive base.

Gel Mediums as Adhesives

Artists often use gel medium in place of glue because:

  • It’s archival and non-yellowing
  • It doesn’t warp or soak into paper the way water-based glues can
  • It bonds porous and semi-porous materials with strength and flexibility
  • It’s paintable and blends seamlessly into the surface

They’re also ideal for mounting artwork to panels or boards, especially when using paper, canvas, or fabric.

⚠️ Tips for Using Gel Mediums:

  • Always use a clean brush or knife to apply — dried medium is tough on bristles.
  • Clean tools immediately with warm water and soap.
  • For best adhesion, apply gel to both surfaces when working with heavier materials.

Gel mediums are more than glue — they’re a creative tool. Whether you're building layers in a painting or securing materials in a mixed media piece, gel mediums provide strength, flexibility, and a professional finish that elevates your work.

What About Mod Podge?

Ah, Mod Podge — the name that’s practically synonymous with decoupage. It's a familiar staple in craft rooms, classrooms, and creative studios everywhere, and for good reason.

Mod Podge is a water-based all-in-one glue, sealer, and finish. It’s incredibly versatile and easy to use, making it a favorite for paper crafts, decorative art, and basic mixed media.

✅ What Mod Podge Does Well:

  • Glues paper or fabric to surfaces like wood, canvas, cardboard, and more
  • Seals finished surfaces with a matte, satin, or gloss finish
  • Acts as a topcoat for puzzles, collages, decorative boxes, and signs
  • Dries clear and is available in a variety of specialty formulas (Outdoor, Dishwasher-Safe, Fabric, etc.)

⚠️ Mod Podge Isn’t Archival

While it’s convenient and widely available, Mod Podge is not acid-free or pH-neutral. That means it’s not suitable for long-term preservation or use in fine art that will be framed or sold.

It can also:

  • Dry tacky in humid environments
  • Yellow slightly over time
  • React unpredictably under varnishes or sprays

🎨 Mod Podge vs. Gel Mediums

If you're crafting for fun, making home decor, or teaching in a classroom, Mod Podge is great. But for professional-quality, long-lasting work, acrylic gel mediums are a better choice.

Feature Mod Podge Gel Medium
Archival ❌ No ✅ Yes (if labeled)
Dries Flexible ✅ Yes ✅ Yes
Available Finishes ✅ Many options ✅ Gloss, Matte, etc.
Bonds Heavier Materials ❌ Not ideal ✅ Yes
Yellowing Over Time ⚠️ Possible ❌ Unlikely

Mod Podge has earned its place in the creative world — just know when to reach for it and when to upgrade to a medium that offers archival protection and broader compatibility.

Glue Guns (Hot Glue)

Hot glue guns melt plastic-based glue sticks, dispensing a thick bead of adhesive that cools and hardens quickly. They’re popular for crafting, quick displays, and temporary bonds, and they’re especially useful for bulky or textured surfaces.

Use hot glue for:

  • Mounting foam board or lightweight objects
  • Craft displays or signage
  • Holding items in place temporarily (before switching to a stronger adhesive)

Pros:

  • Fast set time
  • Works on porous and nonporous surfaces
  • Fills gaps well

⚠️ Cautions:

  • Not archival
  • Can create stringy residue and bulky glue beads
  • May not bond well to slick or oily surfaces
  • Can melt delicate materials (be careful with thin plastics or fabrics)

Tapes, Dots & Mounting Materials

Sometimes you don’t need glue — you just need something clean, precise, and removable. That’s where adhesive tapes and mounting products shine. From studio sketchbooks to gallery walls, the right tape can make your work easier to display, protect, or transport.

🎨 Artist Tape vs. Masking Tape

These might look similar, but there’s a big difference in how they treat your paper.

  • Artist Tape is designed to be low-tack and removable, making it safe for delicate paper. It’s ideal for masking watercolor borders, taping down paper for drafting, or temporarily securing artwork during framing.
  • Masking Tape has a stronger hold and may tear or damage paper when removed. It’s better for labeling or taping to hard surfaces — not your final art.

Tip: Always test on a corner first, especially on handmade or thin paper.

Framers Tape & Hinging Tapes

These tapes are acid-free and archival, meant for attaching artwork to mats or mounting boards without compromising longevity.

  • Framers Tape is pressure-sensitive and permanent — best for securing backing boards or hinges.
  • Hinging Tapes (like linen or mulberry paper hinge tape) are designed to attach artwork to mats in a way that’s reversible and museum-safe.

Double-Stick Tape & Mounting Dots

 

Great for: display projects, scrapbooking, and clean matboard attachment

  • Double-stick tape creates a flat, invisible bond — ideal for quick mounting and presentation boards.
  • Adhesive dots are small, flexible glue-like circles that work well for lightweight 3D items, like embellishments or display labels.

Stitchery Tape

Stitchery tape is a double-sided, acid-free mounting tape designed specifically for fabric art, embroidery, cross-stitch, or quilt blocks being mounted for framing. It’s strong enough to hold fabric taut but won’t damage or stain the textile, making it ideal for conservation-minded presentations.

  • Acid-free and archival
  • Holds fabric securely without sewing or adhesives that might bleed through
  • Ideal for mounting fabric to mat board or foam core
  • Can be removed carefully from many textiles without damage

Note: While it's designed to be safe for fabric, always test on delicate or vintage materials before committing.

Fabric Tape (Sewing Tape / Fusible Tape)

This type of tape is often used by sewists and fiber artists for hemming, repairs, or attaching fabrics without stitching. It may be fusible (activated by ironing) or pressure-sensitive, and can be helpful in mixed media art, costume work, or applying trims and fabric patches.

  • Not always archival — check product details if used on artwork
  • Works best on washable or flexible textile projects
  • Some versions are heat-activated (fusible) while others are peel-and-stick

⚠️ Know Before You Tape:

  • Not all tapes are archival. If your work will be stored or sold, choose acid-free options.
  • Avoid using scotch tape, packing tape, or duct tape on artwork — they will yellow, crack, or damage surfaces over time.
  • Store tapes in a cool, dry space — extreme humidity or age can cause even good tape to leave residue.

Whether you’re prepping artwork for critique, framing a finished piece, or building a display, tapes and mounting adhesives are the unsung tools of a polished presentation.

Rubber Cement & Rubber Cement Lifter

Rubber cement is a solvent-based adhesive that applies wet and dries to a flexible, rubbery film. Once dry, it forms a bond that can be either temporary or permanent, depending on how it’s applied.

Great for:

  • Layout work, illustration board, scrapbooking
  • Temporary adhesion for stenciling or positioning
  • Masking areas during watercolor or ink work

✅ How It Works:

  • Apply rubber cement to one surface for a removable bond
  • Apply to both surfaces for a stronger, semi-permanent bond

⚠️ Cautions:

  • Not archival — rubber cement contains solvents that can yellow or damage paper over time
  • Use in well-ventilated areas
  • May wrinkle thin paper if over-applied

Rubber Cement Lifter

This small, eraser-like block is designed to gently rub away dried rubber cement without damaging the paper underneath. It's perfect for cleaning up excess glue or removing temporary mounts in paste-up or fine illustration work.

Wood Glue (Carpenter’s Glue / Yellow Glue)

Wood glue is specially formulated to bond wood fibers together with exceptional strength. It’s commonly used in framing, stretcher bar assembly, and wood-based art construction.

Use wood glue for:

  • Assembling frames or display supports
  • Repairing or reinforcing wood art panels
  • Adhering wood to wood (best results with clamps and pressure)

Pros:

  • Strong, permanent bond for wood
  • Dries harder than white glue
  • Often sandable and paintable

⚠️ Cautions:

  • Not usually archival
  • Not suitable for flexible materials or anything that may warp

Pro Tip: For framing and panel work, pair wood glue with clamps and let cure for at least 24 hours for maximum strength.

Heavy-Duty & Mixed Media Adhesives

When your materials are tough — and your bond needs to be tougher.

Not every project stays flat or lightweight. When you're working with glass, metal, plastic, wood, ceramics, or stone — or combining materials that don’t naturally want to stick together — it’s time to bring out the big guns.

These adhesives are often found in hardware stores as well as art supply aisles, and they're essential for assemblage, jewelry, sculpture, and found object art.

E6000

Great for: metal, glass, ceramic, plastic, fabric, and wood

E6000 is a flexible industrial-strength adhesive that dries clear and holds strong across a variety of surfaces. It’s a go-to for crafters, jewelry makers, and mixed media artists who need a durable, long-lasting bond.

Pros:

  • Works on porous and nonporous materials
  • Waterproof and flexible
  • Paintable once dry

⚠️ Cautions:

  • Has strong fumes — use in well-ventilated areas
  • Can take up to 72 hours to fully cure
  • Not archival

Two-Part Epoxy

Great for: bonding dissimilar materials, jewelry, sculpture, or filling gaps

Epoxies offer exceptional strength and durability. They're mixed right before use (resin + hardener) and begin curing immediately. Some epoxies are crystal clear, while others may dry slightly amber.

Use for:

  • Metal to metal or metal to stone
  • Embedding small objects
  • Creating texture or sculptural accents

Tip: Look for “clear-drying” and “non-yellowing” epoxy for aesthetic pieces.

Super Glue (Cyanoacrylate)

Great for: fast fixes, small plastic parts, or precise bonds

Super glue creates a near-instant bond but can be brittle and unforgiving. It’s best for small-scale applications where strength and precision matter more than flexibility.

Use with caution on painted surfaces, as it may cloud finishes or react with pigments.

Working Smart with Strong Adhesives

  • Prep your surface — clean, dry, and slightly rough is best for strong adhesion
  • Clamp or weight materials during curing for best results
  • Use safety gear (gloves, ventilation) as many industrial adhesives emit strong fumes

When your vision includes dimension, texture, or unconventional materials, heavy-duty adhesives let you go beyond canvas and paper. They open the door to bold, mixed media creations — just remember to plan ahead for drying time and workspace safety.

Gorilla Glue and Polyurethane Adhesives

When strength is non-negotiable, polyurethane adhesives like Gorilla Glue step in. These powerful, moisture-activated glues expand as they cure, creating an incredibly strong bond that grips both porous and nonporous materials. They’re ideal for heavy-duty repairs, sculptural builds, or attaching rigid surfaces like wood, stone, ceramics, and metal — especially when traditional craft glues just won’t hold.

Strengths:

  • Extremely strong and durable
  • Bonds porous and nonporous surfaces
  • Waterproof (some formulas are weather-resistant)
  • Works on wood, stone, metal, ceramics, foam, and more

⚠️ Cautions:

  • Expands as it dries — can ooze out and must be clamped to avoid misalignment
  • Not archival — may yellow, become brittle, or react with paper over time
  • Can foam up — messy if over-applied
  • Hard to remove once cured

Best Use Cases:

  • Functional or structural projects (not fine art)
  • Mixed media sculptures with heavy or rigid components
  • Repairing frames, furniture, or display structures

For artwork, Gorilla Glue is powerful but not recommended for anything archival or delicate. It's best for heavy-duty craft applications, repairs, and sculptural assemblage where strength is more important than subtlety or reversibility.

Other Brands/Products Similar to Gorilla Glue:

Here are alternatives to commonly used polyurethane adhesives:

Titebond Polyurethane Glue

  • Known in woodworking and framing circles
  • Similar expanding, waterproof bond
  • Often dries faster than Gorilla Glue
  • Trusted for wood-to-wood or mixed-material bonding

Elmer’s ProBond Advanced (discontinued but may still be in some workshops)

  • Was a non-foaming polyurethane alternative, easier cleanup
  • Known for bonding metal to wood or wood to concrete

Loctite PL Premium Construction Adhesive

  • Typically used in framing and sculpture
  • Strong, moisture-resistant polyurethane bond
  • Very thick and less runny than Gorilla Glue

Heavy-Duty Adhesive Comparison Chart

Adhesive Best For Bonds To Dries Archival? Special Notes
Gorilla Glue (Polyurethane) Heavy-duty projects, rigid materials Wood, metal, stone, ceramic, foam, glass Expands, amber or clear ❌ No Requires moisture to activate, expands as it cures, must be clamped
E6000 Mixed media, jewelry, craft projects Fabric, wood, glass, metal, ceramics Flexible, clear ❌ No Strong fumes, long cure time, water-resistant
Epoxy (2-part) Sculpture, structural repairs, jewelry Almost anything (esp. smooth surfaces) Rock-hard, clear or amber ❌ Usually not Excellent for gap-filling, fast-setting versions available
PVA Glue (acid-free type) Bookbinding, paper, general fine art Paper, board, light wood, fabric Flexible, clear ✅ Yes Archival options available, doesn’t work on slick surfaces

 Troubleshooting & Tips

Even with the right glue, things can go wrong. Here’s how to avoid the most common adhesive mishaps in the studio:

➿ Warping & Bleed-Through

  • Too much moisture in glues (especially white glue or sprays) can cause delicate papers to wrinkle, buckle, or become translucent.
  • To prevent this:
    • Use archival glue sticks, gel mediums, or dry adhesives when working with thin paper.
    • Apply glue thinly and evenly.
    • For liquid glue, apply to the support surface, not directly to the paper.
    • Press flat and dry under weight (a clean book works!) until fully set.

 Always Test First

Before committing adhesive to your artwork, do a quick test on a scrap or corner piece of your material. This will help you:

  • See how the glue reacts with your paper or pigment
  • Gauge how long it takes to dry and whether it discolors the surface
  • Avoid surprises like clouding, puckering, or staining

Storage & Shelf Life

  • Store adhesives in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
  • Keep caps tightly closed and clean the nozzle after each use.
  • Most liquid adhesives have a shelf life of 12–24 months once opened.
  • If a glue smells “off,” separates permanently, or develops mold — it’s time to replace it.

✨ Explore Our Full Adhesives Collection

🛍️ Browse Adhesives at Alabama Art Supply

Our curated selection includes everything from student-safe glue sticks to archival bookbinding glues, double-sided tapes, spray adhesives, gel mediums, and industrial-strength options like E6000 and epoxy.

Quick Reference Guide

Conclusion: The Right Adhesive Makes All the Difference

Glue is more than just glue — it’s an essential tool that supports your creative process, protects your artwork, and ensures your vision holds together for years to come. From archival bookbinding projects to bold mixed media sculptures, choosing the right adhesive can elevate your results and avoid frustrating mishaps.

Whether you’re mounting delicate paper, building a layered collage, or bonding metal to wood, understanding your options — and how they behave — gives you confidence in every creative decision.

Still not sure what’s right for your project?
Our team at Alabama Art Supply is always happy to help. Stop by the store or explore our full Adhesives Collection online.

 

 

Alabama Art Supply is your one-stop shop for all things art! Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned artist, we have everything you need to bring your creative vision to life. From paints and brushes to canvases, sketchbooks, custom framing, and more—if you’re looking for art supplies, we’ve got you covered. Don’t see what you need? Just reach out to us at 205-322-4741—we’re happy to help you find exactly what you're looking for!


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